Teton Dam, Idaho

Teton Dam Idaho. Is one of those places on Earth that every step is thought provoking. Not for its magnificent beauty, not for anything you can see any longer.

It is awe invoking, it is captivating. It is a landmark of travesty.

The Teton Dam was built in the 70's, it was a Earthen Dam built on the Teton River in a canyon. It was doomed from the start. Built on fractured rhyolite and basalt. The dam it's self was permeable. On June 5th 1975, the dam failed. Not completely, but a hole in the dam opened up, then 1/3 of the dam collapsed, enough to drain the nearly 251,000 cubic feet of water, killing 14 people and devastating Rexburg, Sugar City and even reaching as far as Idaho Falls. You can learn more about the dam here.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teton_Dam

Part of the 305 foot tall earthen dam wall remains. I climbed that mound of earth, I followed the Teton River upstream for about 3/miles. The whole path, the whole canyon, I stood in the Teton River looking up those walls,  this was all underwater. This gently meandering stream held back by a shoddy wall of earth.

I didn't even make it to the extent of where the Reservoir reached at the time of the breach. Water is a forced not to be controlled, at least with out intense, profound, respect.

It was a harrowing hike.

My Birthday Wish

The only thing I wanted for my Birthday, well the only thing I wanted and could control, was a decent hike with the kiddos.

I may have overshot my expectations. I failed to look at the trail, the kids, and Pi and how they would combine together as a whole.

My biggest failure, to be honest was picking Cache Creek. I decided on this trail because it was groomed. Because Pi could be off leash, because I wanted it to be easy. I failed to take into account that all the residents of Jackson Hole had the same plans.

So I gave up Cache Creek less than a mile in. Yes I was disappointed, in myself for not thinking through my decision.

Sunday, take two.

No people, no trail. No expectations. This time I asked the kids where they wanted to go. I told them that we were hiking today. That was my choice. Where to go was there's. They all asked if we could "go back to the hill in Kelly where Lucy lost her phone."

It's the hill that is on the opposite side of Kelly Warm springs. So that's where we went. And we hiked. No trail, no expectations. And it was perfect. I set a timer  for 90 minutes and we just wandered through the snow. We hit a trail for a while but Lucy turns into a very grouchy beast when forced to take anyone's path not her own so that didn't last long.

So I turned 30. I learned to asses the situation. To lead by example. To give all participants a voice and opportunity to be heard. To adapt and overcome obstacles as they are presented. I turned 30 and decided to be a grown up. Let's see how that turns out.

A Five Moose Morning

Spring, as usual, has been playing a nasty game of hide and seek here in Jackson. March was looking to be very promising and has gone down hill steadily sense it rang in this month bright and shiny and full of false hope.

Any who. March 13, it was a Sunday, snow was flirting with Jackson and in my annoyance I drove to spring. Dubois, Wyoming. You can tell it's going to be a good day when Five, Count them 5, moose greet your decision.

So Dubois. I didn't know where to Hike so I logged on to my All Trails App and picked a few. The first two were back behind me. The third was up a road called Horsecreek. It wound back and through some sunny hills, of course the trail head I was looking for was down a snowed in road. Again. So I kept driving. I eventually found a spot to park that had a "no unauthorized motor vehicles" forest service sign. You know how I like those.

I parked and Pi and I headed up the road, shortly we encountered the fence that kept those motorized vehicles at bay. Yippie. The road was a nice easy path, we came across an old coral along the path.

Eventually we dead ended into private property and my annoyance skyrocketed. So I took a left. Up the hill and skirted the fence that barred me from disturbing so delicate possessions as the snow and wind that were so safe inside that fence.

There were a few game trails that we sporadically followed, but mostly we just followed were My heart desired. Up a few hills. Around and away from that blasted fence.

I have no idea how far we went, but we hiked for around two and a half hours or so until we dead ended on a ridge line that was a rock fin a bit to icy and steep for Pi, and by default myself as well.

We had our lunch on the fin before we headed back. We had no trail so we followed a different approach back but hit the same hill tops. A very enjoyable surprise found me speaking with a dear friend on one of these hill tops, Pi occupied himself chewing on the remnants of an young elks leg.

After my call, We found the fence and stayed on the ridge line above it well past the protective border that encased it's tender private property. We found a new route down to the road. Just as we started back the road to the car it started to snow. So much for a Spring Hike.

Don't Yuck MyYum

Don't yuck anyone's yum. Jack said that to me, and is it not just the best advice ever. Live Your Life, You do you, let it be, be kind, all of those ideas in one sentence.

Hike your hike.

Mud season is upon us and it causes cravings for The Naked Peaks of the lowest and smallest buttes, and their luscious brown faces bared to the sun. Yet oddly enough this season of Melt limits progress more than the long loooooong months of snow. To further fuel these longings, I am currently dedicating my free time, (and sometimes even work time, OK mostly work time) to the reading of An Appalachian Trail Journal called Then the Hail Came

http://www.skwc.com/exile/Hail-nf.html

As well as a Trail Book for the Gros Ventre and surrounding area. Self torture or sadistic pleasure, you just go ahead and judge.

So where to go, when you cannot yet go up? To The Rivers.

The banks usually lose the snow pack enough to tread along. So Pi and I took the Gros Ventre River for a spin.

It was fantastic, we covered a bit less than 4 miles, but it was a bushwhacking bliss. We slogged through thigh deep slush, and ice bound bogs. We slipped through half eaten willow paths,  and crouched beneath heavy boughs of pine. Skipped over river rock beds and skirted sheer ledges that drooped almost longingly, into the calmly churning depths  of the clearest greenest water.

We encountered two large Moose early on in the hike  they watched us as we took photos from MORE than 50/yards away (because safety first, eh hem tourists). They trounced off and Pi and I continued on. We later encountered these two again, and once more  they pranced away.

Pi would like for me to take this moment and thank all the beavers for working so diligently to prepare those long sharp logs and leave them strewn about just for him, He thoroughly enjoyed galloping carelessly through the snow and river and right into my legs. However pay back was mine when, I quite literally, crashed into their lodge.

As we followed the river, more and more beaver logs were abandoned so temptingly on the steep bank of the river. Causing a very narrow and occasionally sketchy bit of path. We happened upon a scattering of logs and sticks, branches and oddly perfect sized fetching sticks. Too many of which had been chewed at both ends by a long toothed rodent to be a coincidence. I figured this was a beaver dam but it looked incomplete, and was tucked into the overhanging bank. Turns out, No, it wasn't an incomplete dam, it was the lodge.

I began to walk across it (as the snowpack was making this bramble crossing the best option), and My right foot crumpled through a tangle of twigs into empty space clear past my knee. I wasn't yet convinced this was the lodge, as it could have just been a poorly made dam, or maybe a cache, it just looked like a pile of sticks not really 'assembled'  as dams usually look. What convinced me was the beaver that appeared just behind Pi and I in the river slapping it's tail and trying to get our attention a mere moment after my slip into what I can only assume was the agitated critters living room. I stayed for about a minute and took a short video (it's on my Instagram almostrootbeer) then we turned back and let the rodents have their peace. 

A very relaxing way to wander the afternoon away.

A Thursday Night

Spring is here in Jackson. How do I know? Because Mud. Mud season, it is exciting, it's liberating. Nothing like brown grass, slush, running streams and mud to ignite the spring fever within us hikers. Best part this little evening trek is a 2 mile loop right outside my front door. Short, Simple, fantastic views.

The trail starts on Nelson drive, at the Putt Putt trail head. Apparently Jackson Pathways made a new trail, Putt Putt is now for cyclists and the new trail, Woods Canyon(?) is for hikers and horses. Pi and I headed up the new Woods-something trail, then took the fork of Crystal Lite that headed up a small hill on the left. It was the perfect short trek, for the hour I had off between work and a staff meeting.

Kelly with the Kiddos

My weekend. (By that of course I mean my weekend with Kiddos... Divorce... Leads to split time... Only downfall) It also happened to be Jeremiah's (my little broheim) Birthday on Saturday. In the spirit of celebration, and Spring, and a Facebook Memory, we headed out to the pioneer cabins that are on Lower Gros Ventre Road just north of Kelly Warm Springs. Not a true hike but we spent a good hour exploring the cabin and near by structures. Throwing sticks for Pi, watching him crash through the softening snow pack. Hysterical. Taking the photo op in that majestic window framing the Tetons. We reluctantly vacated the cabins when a group of ladies in their 40's stopped by for their photo op. Pi was off leash, ran to greet them but came back when called. Then ran off, then came back. Then followed us to the car.

After the cabin photo op we headed down to the warm springs. (After all it was the weekend of the State Swim meet, just cus we weren't there doesn't mean we couldn't get our swim on... Well the kids anyway)

This also marked the first time Pi intentionally swam. I mean he has fallen in a few creeks, but those don't count. This was full on Pi swimming lesson day. He and the kids spent an hour splashing around in the mucky water.

One of my favorite things about no-goal-hiking, is the freedom it gives the minions to explore and learn and discover. It gives them opportunity's to entertain them selves, find their own comfortable zones. Engage and interact with each other, and only each other, for company and stimulation and imagination.

Emma isn't all that into the muck of Kelly, she tends to linger in the shallow end, where the algae is sparse and yes the water is only a few inches. She gathered 51 snail shells and tiny beautiful pebbles, which she took home and made into necklaces and earrings.

Lucy the adventurer swam through the deep center of Kelly and slogged through the mud and muck and covered every inch of the springs leaving no side stream untouched.

Jack followed her until the mud that was squishing up and around him became to much to bear and he swam back to the deeper spot to 'clean' off. They got to be them. They got to choose. They didn't fight or yell or argue. Until of course it was time to go.

It was a beautiful way to spend the day.

A Day Like no Other

Recently I was given the privilege of taking a short term resident on his one and only park trip since he was a wee lad. As he was days away from leaving the valley without setting foot in either of our glorious parks, I felt it my duty to rectify this unfortunate situation (he is not the kind of person who should be allowed to miss these treasures).  The difficulty in this endeavor was the addition of our two dogs, as we all know National Parks are not pet friendly. I had hoped that we could hit up the Pacific Creek trail head that sits just outside GTNP off Wilderness Road, alas it was snow bound and inaccessible. We decided as we were already in the park we might as well see the sights and took the mini road trip north towards Flagg Ranch, that gem of wilderness snuggled between GTNP and Yellowstone.

Once there we decided to walk from the road closure towards Yellowstone, which unbeknownst to me was a mere 2.3 miles ahead. When I realized we had arrived within the gates of the park, My hiking companion, turned an abrupt right and headed down a steep slope to the Lewis River. The dogs were set loose and we enjoyed a scenic detour. We had a slight mishap when Jude, the hiking companion's pet,  fell through some ice into the frigid waters. Pi of course felt he would be of assistance and demolished the ice in his attempt. Pi managed to get out  of the water without assistance, however Jude thought that following Pi would be the best route. Unfortunately for Jude this lead him further from saftey. Jude was rescued when his attentive master used rocks to break the ice confining the poor pooch and he was able to swim to safety. 

We used our extra layers to dry out the sopping canine and then snuggled him inside the warm embrace of his loving owner's arms, which were conveniently wrapped inside a down jacket, that had just enough extra room for the shivering beast.  Body heat, as we all know, being a quick fix to hypothermia. Once Jude was no longer a pupsicle we climbed out of the river valley and headed back to the car. 

Upon our arrival into the parking lot, my wonderful asshole of a dog decided he no longer wished to hear let alone heed any commamds and went galavanting amongst people, pets, and their engine fueled beasts. This day was just not what I had intended.

Once Pi had be wrangled into the car (simply opening the car door and shouting load up) We devoured the delicious lunch we picked up from Creekside Deli back in Jackson and headed South towards Jackson Lake dam and the remainder of our day.

On the drive my unbelievably patient copilot said he had more hiking in him, if I was amenable. 

Yes. Always yes.

So I took him to the tried and true, always decent, winter road closure of the Gros Ventre  just past Slide Lake. 

We hit the trail with no expectations. And were delighted with our adventure. The road was a bit of a mess, icy and slushy, slick and rough. It was just demolished by the heavy use of snow machines but it was a tried and true trail and took us to some excellent sights. Is it a true trail... No... Was it amazing.... Yes.

At one point Pi was behaving a bit more irradict which turned out to be a reaction to a herd of big horn sheep on the hill above us. When we discovered our company I did my best to distract Pi while our guest photographed away.   I headed further down the trail and spotted the bog boys, called over the photographer and let him snap away. After the sheep encounter our spirits were lifted. We trekked on. Later we encountered some elk and the wonderfulness of the day was solidified.

When we reached the trail head for Sheep Mountain at Red Hills Campground I broke the news that we must soon turn around. As it was sunset and we had hiked in 5.5 miles. 

On our return we witnessed both herds of ungulates we had previously trespassed upon . The sun sank, the stars did their darnedest to peek through the clouds as we ended our hike in the pitch black night of Jackson Hole.  We ended the day with 16 miles under our belt, wild life encounters, and a story for the books. Spectacular Day.